Optimization of the Mixing of Hibiscus Flower (Hibiscus rose sinensis) Extract as a Lip Balm Color with Variations in Concentration

Hibiscus rosa sinensis L. is widely used by the community to decorate the garden because of its splendor. In addition, Hibiscus flowers containing anthocyanin and flavonoids have antioxidants, which function as antioxidants against free radicals. This natural dye can be obtained by extracting Hibiscus flowers through maceration using 96% ethanol. In this research, Hibiscus flowers were obtained from Sendang Rejo Village, Lamongan Regency. In the extract process, the H ibiscus flower’s petals were blended until smooth, then added to 96% ethanol (1 liter) and stirred for 30 minutes. Filtrate results were taken, placed in a porcelain dish, and put in an oven at 60 °C for a day. Four formulas were made with varying levels of Hibiscus flower extract: F1 (0%), F2 (2%), F3 (4%), and F4 (6%). Physical evaluation included


INTRODUCTION
In the 5.0 era, cosmetics are a mandatory thing for toddlers and the elderly, both men and women.Cosmetics are rapidly competing with the drug and herbal medicine industries.Cosmetics are divided into two categories: (1) decorative cosmetics such as lipstick, eyeshadow, blush, eyebrow pencil, and hair dye; and (2) skin care cosmetics including day cream, night cream, bath soap, shampoo, deodorant, and lip balm. 1 Lip balm is a semi-solid preparation included in the cerata class with a fat base.It is used to moisturize lips and prevent chapped lips due to exposure to sunlight, dust, and pollution, which cause damage to the lip skin layer.Lip balm is also used to regenerate dry and rough skin cells.Lip balm is occlusive, which can retain lip moisture.In addition, if the lips look rough, cracked, black, and uneven in color, it can lead to a decrease in self-confidence. 2 Therefore, lip care must be carried out intensely, both using lip scrubs and lip balms, to beautify and increase selfconfidence.The formula used in the manufacture of lip balm must be standardized in the Indonesian Cosmetics Codex for both active ingredients and excipients.Basically, the character of lip balm is similar to that of lipstick because it has a fat or wax base used as a moisturizer. 3,4However, lip balm has emollient properties and is colorless when applied to the lips.Cosmetic active ingredients are divided into two categories: herbal and synthetic.

Sample Preparation
For sample preparation and maceration of Hibiscus flowers, the petals were peeled off and then placed on a tray, covered with a black cloth, and aired to dry.The flowers were blended until smooth and sieved to remove the finer parts.Then, the flowers were put into a 1-liter jar.Ethanol of 96% was added, then stirred for 30 minutes and tightly closed at room temperature.Then, the flowers were stirred for ten minutes and filtered.The filtrate was then taken.
Next, the porcelain dish was placed in the oven at 60 °C for three days.

The Formulation of Hibiscus Flower Extract Lip Balm
The preparation of lip balm using Hibiscus flower extract was made with four formulas: F1 (0%), F2 (2%), F3 (4%), and F4 (6%).BHT was dissolved into VCO in a glass beaker, then added to the mixture of cera alba, lanolin, and Vaseline album, which was melted in a water bath and stirred homogeneously (C1).Then, the aqueous phase of nipagin and propylene glycol homogeneously (C2) were mixed.C2 was mixed with C1 homogeneously, and then Hibiscus flower extract was added and mixed until smooth.The preparation was placed in a pot and evaluated.

Evaluation of Hibiscus Flower Extract Lip Balm Organoleptic test
The preparation of Hibiscus flower extract lip balm was evaluated visually with parameters of texture, color, and aroma. 6,7 ogeneity test A total of 0.5 grams of the preparation was placed on a glass object and then covered using a deck glass and observed under a microscope with a magnification of 40x. 6,7readability test A total of 0.5 grams of the preparation was placed on a ballast glass, then covered with glass, and the diameter of the distribution area was measured.After 1 (one), add the ballast, let stand for one minute, and measure the diameter of the distribution area until the preparation was constant and did not expand anymore. 6,7 test A total of 1 gram of the preparation was put in a glass beaker, and 10 ml of CO2free aqua was added.Then, a pH meter was inserted into the preparation, and the researchers waited for the value to appear and stabilize. 6
][10] To date, more than 540 types of anthocyanins can give blue, red, and purple colors. 11During the maceration process, temperature and storage can damage anthocyanin pigments, although their degradation is not affected by oxygen but is strongly influenced by temperature accumulation. 5The opening of the ring and the degradation of anthocyanins are factors causing color changes. 10 this study, the organoleptic results uncovered that F1 was white, while F2, F3, and F4 were red mixed with white.Apart from their bright and attractive colors, their solubility was also quite high in water. 12,13The texture of F1 looked drier than that of F2, F3, and F4 because F1 did not have an antioxidant that functioned as a moisturizer.In addition, there was no aroma caused by F1 because there was no active ingredient in Hibiscus flower extract, while F2, F3, and F4 had a distinctively strong Hibiscus flower aroma.The aroma comes from the refreshing acid compound in Hibiscus flowers. 14,15dditionally, the homogeneity evaluation results revealed that the preparation of F1 had a homogeneous composition.This is because Cera alba can be used to increase the melting point value and is a good binder in this formula.These four samples, F2, F3, and F4, were made up of different amounts of red anthocyanins from Hibiscus flower extract and white fat base from Cera alba 15 .This is due to the fact that the withdrawal of Hibiscus flower extract using ethanol as a polar solvent cannot be mixed with the Cera alba base, i.e., fat (non-polar).It results in the inability to mix the extract and the fat base of the formula.Besides, F1 was well mixed because there was no mixing between polar and non-polar compounds.The evaluation of dispersion determines how widely the preparation of Hibiscus flower extract lip balm can spread when applied.Good dispersion for topical preparations is 5-7 cm, as much as 1 gram. 15,16The results of the average dispersion test of 3.53 cm could be concluded that it did not meet the standard requirements because the preparation was weighed at only 0.5 grams instead of 1 gram.Hence, the number of preparations used affected the spreadability of the preparation.1][22] Topical preparations with a too-acid pH will cause sensitive and red skin, while if they are too alkaline, they will cause eczema and cracked skin.Hence, it is necessary to have a specific pH to prevent skin damage due to inappropriate pH values.In this regard, the chemical structure and pH of anthocyanins in Hibiscus flower extract have different pH values depending on the conditions.Neutral pH (pH 7) does not give color.[25] The results obtained are acceptable in accordance with the requirements of the Indonesian Cosmetics Codex.Nevertheless, for uneven color results, a mixing process with better heating needs to be carried out.

CONCLUSION
It can be concluded that the Hibiscus flower extract using a 96% ethanol solvent through the maceration method could not be used as a lip balm formulation based on Cera alba fat.